Tuesday, June 23rd - Kashgar to Tash Rabat

This morning we were up and packed and had breakfast and were ready to go by 9 a.m.   We had a 2 - 3 hour drive to the border in Turogart Pass, and then another 2 - 3 hour drive from there to our destination.  All that doesn't sound too bad but we have to go through several police and immigration and customs check points and apparently the waits can be long.

We did make one stop in town as most of us had Chinese yuan to exchange and we needed Kyrkystan som.  We just pulled over on one of the main streets and the driver yelled at an older man in a trench coat and he came on board with his calculator and pockets full of money.  My 1100 yuan became 8800 som.  We might have been able to get a better rate somewhere else but we definitely could not have found better service. I don't normally make use of the black market when travelling but this one was just fine.

The first part of the drive was very quick and on a great highway that doesn't yet even show up on google maps.  Then we turned on to a smaller highway.  That turned into a mass of potholes and washed away road bed.  The driving was ridiculous and there were always big semi trailers coming at us from the other direction.  A couple of times we had to stop to let them by before we could proceed, and once we  had to back up.  It was definitely a bumpy road and one of the worst I've driven on, and I thought I'd seem them all.  The only good thing was that it was warm and dry.  Obviously the water and cold do not make this road easier to travel so I wouldn't have wanted to be in that kind of weather.

The scenery was changing all the time.  Once we were out of the city we had some green land and small fields.  Then we had barren dry land with signs of industry in the background.  There were hills in the background and eventually high mountains appeared.  There were also some very wide river beds but very little water flowing through them.  The houses along the way were mud brick and one storey.  Some times they were on their own and sometimes in small towns.  There were very few people anywhere around.

At 10:30 we arrived at our first check point but we were too early and had to wait until they opened at 9:00 local time -  the two-hour time difference again.  There were dozens of money changers there waiting to make us a deal and I was very glad we had already taken care of that in Kashgar.  We were the first ones through when they opened at 9 a.m. and we were on our way again by 9:30.  We had to take all our belongings and walk through the check point then re-board the bus but the process was pretty easy.   The check point after that we were just waved through.  

At this point we were still in China but it was more like no man's land.  The road was terrible.  There were still some wide river beds with only small streams but the road had obviously been washed out in places.  And there were beware of water on the road signs in many locations.  There were a few very small villages with brick and stone houses.  There were  also a couple of small villages where the houses were all brick and all built and painted exactly the same.  We figured that was likely a building project of some sort where the government had relocated some village.  Thankfully there was very little traffic on this narrow two-lane road which often had sheep and goats crossing or wandering down it.  As we were in a mountainous area near the end there were a lot of S curves and sharp corners where the signs showed a horn so you had to honk to make sure everyone knew you were coming around the corner.  And our driver literally did use every inch of the road so it was good not to meet anyone along the way.  The whole ride was fast/slow, left/right, to/fro so my motion sickness was definitely kicking in.  Sitting in the back seat of the van probably didn't help either

At 2 p.m. we arrived at the final check point before the actual border and we waited for over an hour and a half to get through.  The police could very easily and quickly have cleared the two automobiles in front of us and our bus since we were leaving China and had already cleared customs and immigration, but instead they decided to work on an old double decker bus coming into China.  They made everyone get off of the bus and they had to remove all their stuff.  Some of it had to go through the portable x-ray machine.  Some of it had to be opened and it was confiscated.  Some of it was taken but then they were allowed to bring it back.  We assume a bribe or two was provided.  The people on the bus looked like they were just moving to China they had so much luggage.  And they had big jugs of honey - at least 5 quarts in size - and honey cannot be brought into China.  Cherries are not allowed either and there were boxes of them - and cigarettes, also banned.  It was really quite amazing to see all the stuff they had and how they had it packed into the bus.  Big boxes and cases came out of the upper windows and then had to be crammed back in.  And we had lots of time to watch the process and a great view because we were right beside them going the other way.  Obviously the police or check point people (at least 10 of them involved at this point) really don't mind if foreigners see them tasting the wares that are not allowed to be brought in or treating some people differently than others or just wasting everyone's time by sitting around laughing and talking while we all waited.  Luckily we have a very patient group so had no problem waiting.

Breakfast had been at 8 a.m. and it was now approaching 4 p.m. so we were a bit peckish so we ate a lot of cookies and nuts and crackers and drank a lot of water.  While waiting we also used the facilities (I hesitate to call them washrooms), walked around, did some stretching and just stared at the border guards as they went through the bus.  We even got to see it rain and snow/hail while we waited, but only briefly.  Eventually they finished with the bus and then we think they took a break (well-deserved I'm sure) before finally getting around to us.  As expected they just opened the gate and we got our bags, said goodbye to our China guide and driver, and walked across the border to board our new van and meet our new guide.

What a difference a border makes!!!  Kyrgystan seemed wonderful right from the beginning.  The driver and guide were smiling and friendly even though they had been waiting since 11 a.m. and it was now well after 4 p.m.    Mikka is our new guide and she is bubbly and full of information.  The road is no better but the driver is good.  We still have about a 2 hour drive to get to our destination, which was the bad news.  The good news was that they are on regular time (not Beijing time) so we had to move our clocks back 2 hours, which meant we would still have time at our new place when we arrived. 

The scenery is breathtaking and seems totally different that what we've just seen in China.  Everything is green and lush looking in the valleys and the hills are wonderful shades and shapes.  There are high craggy mountains closer to the road and snow-capped mountains in the distance.  Tina spotted a marmot and that was exciting for her and then we saw lots of them so she was thrilled.  There were sheep, goats, cows, horses, and even yaks along the way.  The rivers even have lots of water in them.  Our guide tells us that this is just Kyrgystan and you will have a beautiful scene around every corner.  We already believe her and we are definitely taking a lot of pictures.  Kyrgyystan is higher than the surrounding countries and the higher elevation makes it cooler, or should I say colder.  Snow at the border crossing should have been our first clue or an elevation of 3,700 metres!  By the time we arrive at our destination we are pulling out fleeces, coats, tougues and gloves.  And the air is so clean and fresh after China - even with the animal smells.

Our campsite is directly across from Tash Rabat.  I thought Tash Rabat was a town or city but no, it is just an ancient stop on the Silk Road.  The area is the home of a small community of Kyrgyz nomads high in the Tian Shan mountain range.  There are lovely green rolling hills all around and in the distance you can see snow-capped mountains.  There is a small river running through the area anad the water is very cold.  There are sheep and goats and cows wandering all through the place and in the midst of all this are 10 to 12 yurts and a couple of other buildings.

We have four people in one yurt and three in ours.  There are four singe beds in each yurt.  When you are in them in the day time, enough light gets in that you can see.  They are made of a wood frame covered by hides held together by felt straps.  Each one has a small stove in it and they burn dung in the evenings to keep the interior warm.  The beds have heavy blankets on them to keep us warm but there are enough spaces around the bottom and in other places that the cold air can get in.  The door is made of heavy hides sewn together and is rolled up during the day.  At night the door comes down to keep the heat in.  It was definitely cool when we got there and I had my shirt, a fleece and my jacket on, my head band and jacket hood on my head, and my tights under my slacks.  I was comfortable but if the wind really started blowing it was cold.  We knew it was going to get colder and they thought maybe even down to freezing.   Compliments of a generator, we had lights from 8 to 11 p.m.  Toilets were outdoors of course but once it was dark, any quiet spot outside seemed more inviting.

Once we were settled in and dressed, we walked over to tour Tash Rabat.  Built in the 12th century, if I remember correctly, it was a major caravan stop for goods coming from China through the pass.  It is one main structure that looks big from the front but small from the back as it is built right into the side of the hillside.  There is an arch entry and a long hallway leading into the main common room which has a fire pit in the centre under a high dome.  Branching out in all directions were other corridors.  Some led to jail cells (pits in the ground covered by grates), some were sleeping areas, storage areas, and even one escape route tunnelled out the back in case of attack.  Aside from the main rooms, many of the ceilings and passageways had low ceilings.  It was certainly a structure that would have been warm and safe for weary travellers.  The animals generally stayed outside in a pen but if it was too cold, they too would be invited in.

Following our tour of Tash Rabat we had a few minutes to explore before dinner.  I have to confess that I didn't go far as I was finding it hard to breath just walking up the hillsides.  I guess thee elevation was too much for me even though I don't think it was much more than 3,000 metres.  

Dinner was at 8 p.m. in one of the buildings and there was hot water there for washing and plugins for charging cameras or cell phones as well.  Dinners in Kyrgystan consist of salad, soup, main course and dessert and a lot of the food (like the desserts)) are set on the table from the very beginning.  We had cucumbers and tomatoes and a light spring noodle salad, followed by a delicious soup with meat, potatoes and vegetables.  The main meal was a noodle dish with some vegetables and maybe some meat and cheese (it was hard to tell).  I do know that it was delicious and the whole meal was a great change from Chinese food.  Desserts were sweets and chocolates lots of jam (raspberry, strawberry, black current and cherry) on various pastries.  Their jams are absolutely delicious and I don't even like jam.  They even put jam in their coffee to make it sweeter and they consider jam to have many medicinal values.  I'm not so sure it isn't just a great way to get some more sugar.  Regardless, it was a great meal and we were certainly satisfied when we left the table.   Oh, we also had two other travellers and their guide with us for dinner and we really did have a great time.  Vodka is the drink of choice here so with their vodka and our wine and beer we had a good time and a lot of laughs.

We went to bed about 10 (midnight Beijing time) so we were tired.  The fire had been started and the door closed so the yurt was warm.  However, in my bunk I still felt cold so I couldn't get to sleep right away and I awoke many times during the night so didn't sleep well.  I got up shortly after 5 to go to the bathroom.  It was already too light so I had to go to the outhouse.  I had just got settled back into bed and drifting off when the alarm went off at 5:30.  It was set for 7:30 but I forgot to change the from Beijing time so 7:30 became 5:30.  Then I was just going back to sleep when suddenly the sun rose and was shining directly in my face through a small hole in the side of the yurt so at 6 a.m. I figured I might as well get up and face the new day - the subject of another blog.