Wednesday, September 9th - Toledo and Madrid, Spain
We were up and on our way at 8:30 for our bus trip to the city of Toledo, which is about 70 km south of Madrid. The country side we drove through was beautiful - rolling hills with lots of green and brown throughout. At one point there was a lovely river and it had a water wheel at the one side but the water was so calm I'm not sure how it was working or if it was. Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a population of 85,000. It is referred to as an "Imperial City" because it was the court of Charles I when he was King. It is also referred to as the "City of Three Cultures", which I'll explain later.
It was neat to watch Toledo "appear". It is built on a hillside and most of the buildings and walls are a light stone colour. As we drove it just kept getting bigger and bigger. One of the buildings is huge and it's a square building, probably with a courtyard in the centre, with four high towers with spires, one at each corner. There is a river running in front of the one part (maybe a moat) and an old stone bridge with a stone gate tower at the entrance to the city through a high wide arched gate. The top of the tower is serrated and had a walkway behind the top of the wall for the guards to watch from and be protected by the wall. There are small slotted windows or arrow holes along the side of the tower. These bridges and towers look so old and authentic and yet it's hard to believe that the Romans built them a thousand years ago and we are still using them.
As we drove around the city we could see stepped sections of the wall or walls going up the hillside. In many cases they used the hill itself, the rock face, as part of the wall fortification. Every view was beautiful with the sun shining brightly on it. The road to the city was a series of at least four long switch backs. We went to the other side to another high view point to take some pictures. It was a great location and provided a view of the river, the hillside and the big buildings at the top of the city. From here you could see the cathedral and tower as well as the other huge square building. These are on the top of the hill with other buildings and there are more smaller buildings and houses lower down, both inside and outside the city walls but all inside the moat/river barrier. And the Tagus river really does flow around three sides of the hill so it forms a natural moat on three of the four sides. Not only is it good protection; it is also beautiful. I took way too many pictures here. My one panorama of the city and river on two sides and in front was pretty impressive, if I do say so myself.
There are large homes on this side of the river (view side across from the city) and they have big yards and open areas around them including fields of olive trees. Apparently this is where the rich folks live. There were also some fields of excavations where just the lower parts of walls could be seen, but obviously work was continuing on these sights. As we drove back down to the river it was just amazing how old and authentic looking the bridges and entrance gates look. Going across the highway bridge I just happened to get a wonderful shot of one of the old bridges, Alcantara I think, where the huge arch in the centre is reflected perfectly in the water so you get an almost perfect circle. It's quite an unbelievable shot given that we were driving along in the bus and I just happened to snap a picture. I certainly confess that it wasn't planned to get the reflection or the circle.
Jewelry and metal working is big in Toledo and we went to one of the factories. It was interesting to see how they make some of the jewelry and just how delicate and fine some of the detail is. Men with big hands were adding bits of silver thread that was so fine you could hardly see it onto beautiful pieces of jewelry, some of which was tiny itself. It definitely took a lot of finesse and concentration and the results were beautiful.. As usual, I didn't buy anything but thankfully a lot of others bought a lot of pieces. I think they did quite well on our group despite my no purchase policy.
And finally we got to go into the old city itself. To keep traffic, especially tour bus traffic, under control in the old city, they built a series of parking lots at the bottom of the hill and escalators going up the side of the hill. These escalators are long (several floors) and I believe there are six of them. They are reasonably new (2001) and, because they are so successful and used by so many people, they are building another set on the other side. I think it was 40,000 people daily who use the current escalators so that's a lot, and it would involve a lot of buses if they all had to be driven to the top. The first escalator won the 2002 Elevator World's Project of the Year Award and I can understand why. It's a great solution and the views while going up the escalators are fantastic. They are open on the one side at eye level but all covered so you can enjoy the view but are safe from the elements.
The inside of the city is a lot of up and down because of the hill and the streets are all cobblestone so it made walking interesting for some of us who aren't so coordinated.
At least I had proper walking shoes on. Others weren't quite as smart. The streets are narrow and they wander around a lot. Some of the doors are remarkable with the wood carving and metal work on them. Some are narrow and eloquent and some are key shaped and wide enough for a horse and carriage (or a car these days). As you look down some streets, all you see is stone and brick walls with occasional doors and windows. On others you see a lot of small balconies that seem to add real life to the scene. And some streets are really not streets at all as we know them but rather a set of stairs winding up or down the hillside.
Most buildings are stone and/or brick. There are neat houses with terraces and balconies also of stone/brick or wrought iron with detailed designs. There are carvings of coats of arms, statues, sayings and symbols on some buildings. The windows seemed simpler than in other places though, smaller and often covered with wrought iron grates. There are many small open areas or squares (that are never really square) and a few trees here and there. It's mainly a stone city so adding in a tree here and there or a balcony with some plants and flowers is really nice.
We went to a Jewish synagogue which didn't make much sense to me as a synagogue. First, it was designed by Islamic architects for the Jews but it looks inside exactly like you'd expect a mosque to look with high Arabian arches and the floor marked out for prayer. Second, it had a cross at the front inside and its' called Santa Maria la Blanca. So the story is that it was a synagogue and then later became a church, hence the cross and name, and back in the 12th century when it was built, the Christians Kings were in control but the three religious groups worked in harmony on various projects. How unique is that? Apparently Toledo is known as the City of Three Cultures because of the Christian, Muslim and Jewish traditions that existed there under Alfonso X, who started the Toledo School of Translation where the three groups translated each others' writings into other languages and this greatly expanded the knowledge of all of the cultures. Of course this all ended rather quickly in the 14th and 15th centuries when the then monarchy decided only Christians could exist in Spain and the Spanish inquisition started. The Jews had three months to either 1) leave Spain leaving their gold and silver and money behind, 2) convert to Christianity or 3) be killed. A lot left and it wasn't until 2014 that Spain passed legislation to allow their descendants dual citizenship. Portugal, who followed Spain's lead in the 15th century, is passing similar legislation - expected in 2015. The Jews in Spain were Sephardic Jews who had been in the country from the start of the 11th century.
Anyway, the synagogue is really quite beautiful. It is a large space with about 24 tall pillars (6 rows of 4 ?) that are white with grey stone/mortar trim as decoration. The walls are also white with the same trim. The ceiling is a dark wood and the floors are a lighter brown in various patterns. The dome area has a golden design that is beautiful with scalloped clam shell shapes, geometric patterns and floral designs. And there are paintings at the side of it. Overall it's very impressive.
There were many churches and monasteries that we passed. I couldn't begin to keep them separate there were so many. They were all made of stone and/or brick and they all had towers - some square, some round, ... and all of various heights. They usually had some nice brick designs and carvings and narrow windows. One of the churches had very detailed carvings and beautiful statues over its main entrance, and the door looked very big and heavy. Another church was very Gothic with lots of spires and decorations but it did not have a tower. Many of the churches and monasteries had walls and gates to courtyards and other buildings as well. Currently there are 16 monasteries in Toledo and at one point there were a lot more. That, they say, is where the expression "Holy Toledo" comes from.
The Cathedral of St. Mary of Toledo is a beautiful building with a high tower with a centre spire and many more smaller spires around it, all in a Gothic style. As you walk down some of the narrow streets, the tower fills the entire view between the buildings. The bottom of the tower is more plain and the for about three levels there is more brick decoration and then above that it gets fancier and more Gothic. The Cathedral was built from 1226 to 1493. It is made of light stone but some of it is much darker now.
There were to be two towers but only the one to the left of the main door was completed. To the right there is a higher domed area over a chapel instead of the second tower. There are beautiful carved statues all over the front entrance and lots of other decorations. The huge arched entrance is layered in decoration for about four feet of depth as you go into the cathedral. There is a balcony above the entrance with arches into the next level above. We did not have time to go in as we still had other sights to see.
In the Church of St. Thomas there is a painting by El Greco, who lived in Toledo for a while. There was a long line-up for this with lots of tour groups waiting so we stood in line until our group got in. It is a very small building - at least the part we saw. Once you got into the first room, or maybe it was just the back of one room, you just stood and waited for your chance to move forward to see the painting which is quite large and takes up most of the end wall. The painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz" tells the story of a religious count who died, confessed his sins, left all his money to the church and pledged annual payments forever to the church if he could be buried there. The people in the village of Orgaz were of course the ones who had to make these annual payments after their count died. They did for a while and then stopped. The church sued them. The law suit took almost 20 years to be settled in the courts. Eventually the church won and the village had to pay the legal costs and all of the back years and keep paying forever. Past years' payments were made but eventually people just moved out of the town. However, with all the money that the church collected, they commissioned El Greco to do the painting.
The count died in the 14th century and the painting was done in the 16th century. The people gathered together in the painting are all dressed in 16th century costumes despite the fact the time was the 14th century. People from the 16th century are depicted in the scene including El Greco himself and his son. It's quite a nice painting with the earthly funeral below in a square section and the heavenly scene above in an arched section. A couple of the saints even came to the earthly funeral to thank the count for his contributions on their behalf. The dark funeral scene contrasts with the white heavenly scene and the gold of the saints at the funeral flows nicely into the gold in heaven to tie it all together. I guess it was good to see but the five minute rush past it (no pictures allowed) may not have been worth the wait when there were so many other things to see in the city.
There were some cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating as we wandered around the town. We had our break at one of them but aside from lining up for the toilet, we ladies really didn't have much time for anything else. We went to our meeting point and had a bit of free time before we had to go to the bus. However, we also had to have our lunch so it was pretty rushed with not much time for shopping. Darn! I grabbed a quick sandwich and then wandered through one of the archways to check out the view on the other side, which was nice and had even more churches and monasteries. The park we were meeting in was one of the largest we had seen and there were lots of shops and cafes and restaurants all around with lots of outdoor seating and even some trees for shade and benches. Heck, it even had a McDonalds! From there we found our way to the top of the escalators for some last pictures of the view from the top and then took the long ride down to meet our bus in the parking lot and head back to Madrid.
Once we were back in Madrid, the bus made a stop by the Prado Museum. Most people stayed on the bus and went directly back to the hotel but some folks got off to visit the Prado or go to other parts of Madrid. The six of us decided to take a walk in Retiro Park and it was really quite lovely. The park is really large and has several man-made lakes and water features in it. On the one lake there is an impressive monument to King Alfonso XII. You can rent row boats on this lake and there were many people out enjoying themselves that way. We relaxed by the edge of the lake having coffee or ice cream, depending on our tastes.
We walked past the one palace, a small but lovely brick building with colourful tile mosaics on it. We went into the crystal palace, which was not all that impressive at all despite the fact that I remember it as being quite lovely. I think they have changed the interior - at least the floor. The walls are all glass so nothing has changed there. It has three main dome areas and two smaller ones on either side. The whole thing is wide open and all glass so when we visited it felt like a big greenhouse. Since it was rather hot we didn't stay long. For some reason I remember it as having a glass or water or mirror floor or something unique and you could only walk around the outer edge and it was beautiful. Now it's just a concrete floor and very boring.
We continued through the park to the south end toward the train station where I figured we could take the metro to the stop near our hotel. But oh no, we decided to walk. An hour later we finally made it and that was up a bit and down a bit and up again. And we'd already been walking for two hours before that, not to mention all the walking in Toledo. I was hot and sweaty and totally exhausted by the time we got back to the hotel. Luckily I had time to shower and rinse out some clothes before we had to go down to dinner.
This was our last dinner on the tour and I kind of expected something special but it wasn't. It was your typical hotel dinner and our guide and driver didn't even join us. They didn't for any other meals but we thought they might for this one. Instead they were just there to greet us and collect their tip envelopes and then they were gone. Dinner was a vegetable soup, which had no taste that we could identify. The main dish was a piece of salmon on top of some cut potatoes. Both were very good but we all commented that at least a bit of vegetable would be nice. Dessert was (I think) a chocolate cake / ice-cream cake but it was so light we weren't really sure it was ice cream but it was too heavy to be whip cream so who knows. It was very tasty and very light though so we all enjoyed it. After dinner, as people started leaving there were a lot of hugs and farewells. I think I talked more to some of the people at that point than I did on the whole trip!
And that was kind of the end of the evening. We said a special good bye to Randy's family who were heading out at 5 a.m. and I wasn't going to get up to see them off. They were flying Lufthansa and their pilots were on strike today but were supposedly ordered back to work so the gang went to bed hoping their flights were going as scheduled. I went to bed knowing that there would be no wake-up call and I wouldn't' have to get up until I felt like it - as long as that was before the 12 noon check out. Of course I knew I wasn't going to get much sleep though as I still didn't have a hotel to go to the next night or for the next three weeks. I did stay up quite late working on it but eventually gave up as my eyes and my brain just did not want to work any more, and sleep did come quite easily as I was so tired.
